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December 26, 1999
QUICK
THOUGHTS ON JAPANESE FAST FOOD
American-style
fast food was only introduced in Japan during the past 30 years -- when
I lived there as a child, there were no McDonalds, Pizza Hut or KFC
to be found in the alleys and skyscrapers of Tokyo. Those bastions of
U.S. culture arrived in the late '60s and during the 1970s, and when
they did, they often adapted to Japanese tastes, by featuring custom
versions of the familiar Big Macs and Quarter Pounders we know and love.
In Japan, for example, you can order a Teriyaki McBurger with fries.
This
decidedly un-gourmet American cuisine has had some notable effects on
Japanese culture. Over the past several decades, not only has Christmas
become a very popular holiday in Japan, the "traditional"
Christmas day meal of choice has become... a bucket of KFC chicken.
According to a radio news report, no one quite knows how Colonel Saunders'
chicken won out over the typical U.S. feasts of turkey or ham, but the
management of KFC must be crowing over their good fortune. Can you imagine
a Norman Rockwell painting of an all-American family about to have their
holiday meal, gathered around a red-and-white-striped paper bucket?
In
an already rushed and increasingly faster-paced society, the idea of
"fast food" makes sense. In the past, food on the run came
from street vendors or noodle shops; but mostly, I don't think of Japanese
cuisine as being suited to quick cooking and serving.
At
the same time that American junkfood was invading Japan, some Japanese
food has made its way into the U.S. dining menu. In the 1970s, a "Japanese
fast food" chain called Yoshinoya's Beef Bowl first opened outlets
in the Denver area. The restaurants served donburi dishes -- meat and
vegetables with sauce over a bowl of rice -- quickly and inexpensively,
and did well for a few years. My younger brother Glenn even got a job
as assistant manager at the downtown location, and our family is still
friends with his boss from back then.
I have
great memories of chowing down on beef bowls because they were so hearty
and in their own way, pretty authentically Japanese with their thick-sliced
marinated meat, onions and that sweet sauce, topped off with red pepper
and slivers of red ginger.
I have
to admit, though, that there's one reason that American fast food such
as burgers and fries is better suited to the car culture that created
"fast food" in the first place: It's easier to eat while driving!
One night, I was so hungry on my way to visit a friend in Boulder that
I stopped at a Beef Bowl location and ate the damn thing while driving
on the highway using my knees to steer the car while I balanced the
bowl on the steering wheel and shoveled the rice into my mouth with
the chopsticks. A Quarter Pounder with cheese is just much easier to
handle on the road....
For
whatever reason, Yoshinoya's didn't last into the 1990s, at least in
Colorado, though I hear they still thrive on the West coast. There are
a couple of reminders of the chain here, though: The downtown location
where my brother worked is still a Japanese restaurant serving up a
variety of items including bowls. And the former Beef Bowl location
on S. Colorado Blvd. was immediately converted by a former Yoshinoya's
employee who settled in the Denver area, Mareo Torito, as Kokoro, with
the same type of men as the Beef Bowls.
Over
the years, the hard-working Torito has expanded his restaurant's menu
to include other Nihon-shoku (Japanese food) such as tonkatsu, or fried
pork cutlets, curry dishes, a small selection of basic sushi and even
the somewhat exotic "korokke," or fried potato dumpling. Torito
has also expanded his business to include a second location in the northern
suburb of Arvada, in a nice bright building that used to house a Boston
Market franchise, and started advertising both restaurants with eye-catching
billboards scattered throughout the metro area.
Kokoro's
newest menu item is tasty, hearty udon noodles, sold with the catchy
name of "Splash" for non-Japanese whose curiosity might be
sparked by the moniker. Despite its marketing spin, the dish is very
traditional: fish cake, fried tofu, seaweed, shiitake mushroom, boiled
egg and green onions swimming with thick udon noodles in a familiar
broth flavored with soy sauce and a touch of sesame seed oil. It's Japanese
comfort food that's perfect for cold weather!
I happened
to stop by the Arvada Kokoro location for a quick lunch on Christmas
eve, and I was pleased to see that even just before the holiday, the
restaurant was busy with diners. Interestingly, the customers were evenly
split between Asian and Caucasian faces -- Torito's recipe for success
obviously has cross-cultural appeal. Across from me sat a "Leave
It to Beaver" family with a young girl, a teenaged boy wearing
his baseball cap backwards, and mom and dad looking like something out
of a contemporary Norman Rockwell magazine cover, and they didn't seem
out of place at all, having a beef bowl for one of their holiday meals.
Such
is the power of food to cross cultural borders -- even ones that span
vast distances. And, such is the appeal of fast food -- even if it's
not a burger with fries.
While
I was eating (I ordered the tonkatsu, a personal favorite, with a korokke
dumpling), Torito came over and asked me about my cap. I was wearing
a baseball cap with a Kanji character on the front, with the definition
of "Heart, Spirit and Mind" on the back. Torito was excited
by the cap because the Kanji was the character for the word "kokoro,"
or "heart."
I explained
that the cap came from a store in a local mall, but that the manufacturer
was based in Boulder, and called Kanji Kaps. I felt embarrassed to admit
that I wore the cap because I thought it was a cool looking Kanji but
that I didn't know it was the character for "kokoro." At times
like this, I feel more American than Japanese.
Over
the Christmas weekend, I thought some more about how I mix many traditions
into my everyday experiences, including the celebrations of holidays.
For instance, Christmas dinner with Glenn and his wife Michelle and
their beautiful young daughters and the rest of my family featured traditional
Italian food, but after dinner we had traditional Japanese snacks such
as osembe (rice crackers) and yokan (sweet bean paste) alongside the
fudge and other European desserts.
I didn't
have a single bite of KFC chicken all weekend though.
NOTE:
The addresses for the Kokoro locations are 2390 S. Colorado Blvd. in
Denver (303-692-8752) and 5535 Wadsworth Bypass in Arvada (303-432-0600).
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December 20, 1999
BEAT
CRAZY OVER TAIKO
I listen
to traditional Japanese music from many types of instruments, from the
pretty harp-like scales of the koto and the zen breeze of the shakuhachi
flute to the eerily banjo-like shamisen, all used along with many percussion
instruments to accompany kabuki and noh theater, and even in Imperial
"gagaku" music. But I'll readily admit that much of the traditional
music of Japan probably is too foreign to American ears to make much
of a commercial impact in the U.S. -- the ancient gagaku style in particular
can sound like avant-garde noise. Westerners will recognize both the
melody of "Sakura" ("Cherry Blossoms") and the koto
that most often plays the tune, but they may not develop a taste for
other Japanese musical fare.
One
type of traditional music from Japan has made tremendous inroads into
the American consciousness, however: Taiko drumming.
The
word "taiko" means drum, but it's been applied to the many
styles of music played on many types of drums, from small, bell-like
ones to the gigantic "odaiko" drums which are played by sticks
("bachi") the size of baseball bats. Taiko music is of course
percussive -- historically, it was used to both frighten the enemy during
samurai battles and to summon the spirit of the gods upon with the thunderous
call. Ancient cultures around the world seized upon drumming as early
forms of music, and used the powerful rhythms for rituals and battles.
Japanese were no exception, and clay figures still exist from the Haniwa
period (about the year 500 of the Common Era) with drums. Taiko drums,
which were designed after instruments probably brought to Japan starting
in 300 from Korea and China have also been used in religious ceremonies
through the centuries.
Most
of this music was played by one drummer playing one instrument, however.
The sound that we associate today with the exploding popularity of taiko
-- the ensemble rumble of a group of musicians playing complex rhythmic
arrangements on different types of drums with the texture of the different
tones weaving together for an almost hypnotic effect -- is actually
a post-WWII phenomenon. The modern taiko style, or "kumi-daiko,"
was invented by Daihachi Oguchi, a jazz drummer who took a classical
taiko arrangement and decided to add extra drums to suit his jazz group
background.
The
style stuck, and today there are an estimated 4000+ taiko groups beating
a powerful pulse in Japan, with a complement of groups formed in the
U.S. as well.
For
all my appreciation for various traditional Japanese music, I didn't
hear taiko when I was a kid in Japan In fact, I can't tell you where
I first heard taiko, except that it was sometime after I became fascinated
by the drumming and intricate rhythms of African and Latin American
musical styles. In the context of "world music," taiko fits
right in, which is in large part why the style has caught on with Westerners.
Such high profile musicians as Mickey Hart, the drummer for the Grateful
Dead and a scholar of world percussion, have helped raise awareness
for taiko.
The
first taiko group I saw live was Kodo, a remarkable group that tours
the U.S. regularly. I had the great fortune to interview a member of
the group a few years ago when they made several stops in Colorado.
The group's members commit themselves to taiko as if it were a religious
cult. They live on an island off the west coast of Japan and live, work
and play music in a communal environment. They run miles each day and
make physical fitness a part of their musical regimen, make their own
drums, practice constantly and leave the island to spread the gospel
of taiko to the world. They've become the best-known proponents of taiko
music, and if they ever come to your town, I recommend not missing them.
(Denverites will have to wait until February of 2001 for Kodo's return.)
Watching
Kodo - or any taiko group - is a breathtaking experience, because the
musicians don't just beat on drums for an hour and a half. I can only
describe the performances as ballet-like because of the physical grace
and endurance required to play the drums and also execute the often
very complex and intricate choreography that accompanies the drumming.
Some of the moves are simple, such as slowly raising your arms in time
to the rhythm like a sunrise and then bringing them crashing down for
a very loud crash, but the ensemble motion can become dizzying when
the players begin pounding two or more drums at once, and then switch
off positions with each other or spin to the next drum in a kinetic
pantomime that visually echoes the polyrhythmic aural celebration.
It's
an exciting and visceral type of music, so it's no wonder it's popular
wit American fans (if you like rock music, it's hard not to like taiko).
This
week I got to see the fruits of Japanese Americans who love taiko music,
and saw the young students of Denver Taiko, an organization based out
of the Denver Buddhist Temple, perform a demonstration for its various
levels of groups from beginners to advanced drummers. Taiko's become
popular enough that a couple of dozen kids now play in Denver Taiko,
and there's also an adult group (which didn't play at this brief holiday
concert, which was followed by a casual party for kids and parents).
It was nice to hear the work of such dedicated students, and to see
that taiko has become another way for the Japanese American community
to explore its cultural roots.
Taiko
music was introduced to California JA communities in the late 1960s,
when the first U.S. taiko group was formed in San Francisco. Denver's
group was originally formed in 1979, and the 20 years of performing
and keeping alive the community spirit through the drumming has made
Denver Taiko a vital institution.
Hmmm,
I'm a dedicated amateur drummer who constantly beats my dashboard along
to music while driving ... I wonder if I'd make the grade if I try out
for Denver Taiko?
You
can learn more about taiko drumming at an excellent Web site, The Taiko Resource.
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December 13, 1999
PEARL
HARBOR, HIROSHIMA AND THE HATRED OF WAR
My
father's family lived in Honolulu in the years leading up to World War
II, but my grandfather took them to Japan in the summer of 1940. I don't
know if my grandfather knew that war was coming in the form of the attack
on the Pearl Harbor naval base on December 7, 1941, but he surely was
aware of the building tension between Japan and the U.S.
Since
my dad and his brothers and sisters weren't directly affected by the
attack on Pearl Harbor, December 7 has never been a big date in my family's
calendar. Growing up, I felt neither patriotism over the deaths of U.S.
military personnel, nor embarrassment that the country of my heritage
was responsible. As an adult, however, I find myself thinking a lot
more about responsibility and consequences of brutal acts of war, not
just over Pearl Harbor but also other horrors committed in the heat
of battle.
Last
week, I dwelled on these thoughts more than usual because of the anniversary
of the Pearl Harbor attack. But my musing was also sparked by a message
posted to a Japanese American e-mail discussion group I belong to, called
"Ties-Talk." The members of the group can openly and freely
about issues affecting the Japanese American (and Canadian and Latin
American) experience, and last week a flurry of e-mails were sent out
in reply to one from Alisa Sanada, a 17-year-old young woman in Dallas
who maintains the excellent "RealJapan" Web site.
Alisa
was upset by a posting to her message boards, from a publisher promoting
a new book by two Marines, General Raymond Davis and Georgia state Judge
Dan Winn. Usually, having someone hype a book in our message boards
is a minor irritation, but this message was disturbing, considering
it was placed on a site celebrating Japan and Japanese American culture.
The
book being promoted, "Clear Conscience," tries to justify
the bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki simply by considering it payback
for the "rape, torture, killing contests, cannibalism, and the
unrelenting murder of 30,000,000 civilian men, women, and children by
the JAPANESE" during and in the years leading up to the war. This
includes the rape of Nanking, and the brutal treatment of prisoners
of war during the war. There's no doubt that the Japanese committed
atrocities, and were particularly brutal with prisoners (even after
Emperor Hirohito announced Japan's surrender over the radio, some officers
took American POWs out of prison and murdered them with their samurai
swords).
But
to justify the mass killings of a city full of civilians with one bomb
as revenge for atrocities seems so primitive and simple-minded that
it's ludicrous. It reflects a fundamental level of hatred that obviously
hasn't diminished over the years with this book's co-authors. "Clear
Conscience" is a sad commentary on how the flames of hate won't
die if you let them flicker in your heart.
Alisa's
message to Ties-Talk ignited a vibrant discourse on the bomb and about
Pearl Harbor (I've often heard how the A-bomb was appropriate because
Japan started the war). Alisa later wrote how she didn't mean to cover
old ground with her message, but most of us replied that it's healthy
to bring up these topics so that younger people can know what happened
five decades ago, and how the side effects of those nuclear explosions
still reverberate through our culture. One member wrote that "What
Japan did during the War was wrong. And what the US did by dropping
the bomb was wrong. It was just one horrible time when many innocent
people were killed. Two wrongs don't make a right."
I posted
a note reminding the Ties-Talkers that in one night using conventional
bombs to spark city-wide fires, a large portion of Tokyo was flattened
and 70,000+ people were killed -- a comparable number of victims to
the Hiroshima blast. This attack came on the night of March 10, 1945
-- months before the A-bomb was used -- and it was part of a systematic
plan by the U.S. to destroy both Japan' ability to wage war and her
people's will to fight. Did that night of bombing, during which thousands
of people died not from the bombs themselves but from the fires and
worse, from suffocation because the flames sucked all the oxygen out
of the air, and the bombings of almost every major city in Japan make
up for atrocities committed by the country's military?
Then
I asked about atrocities committed in the name of war in general, starting
with the brutality of the "Holy Wars" waged in the name of
religion during the Crusades (not to mention atrocities committed through
the ages in the name of many religions). I asked about the murder of
the Jews by the Nazis, and whether Germany should have been blasted
into oblivion to repay that human debt, or over the indiscriminate rocket
bombings of London. The Allies did in fact bomb the city of Dresden
into ashes towards the end of the war in Europe.
In
the end, it seems to me that as civilized beings who have to share the
precious Earth as our home, we need to stop trying to place blame or
exact revenge on each other for the past, and plan a future together
that's as free from hate as possible. I'm not naive enough to think
that all Jews and Arabs will suddenly embrace each other, or that Hutus
and Tutsis will live in harmony, or that Serbs and Croats can settle
their racial differences, or that skinheads will see that minorities
are just like them. Nor do I think that the two poor misguided fools
who wrote this "Clear Conscience" will realize how backwards
they sound.
I just
hope that more people in the world think like me, and not like them.
You
can read some archived threads and learn how to sign up for the "Ties-Talk"
e-mail discussion group, or check out Alisa Sanada's "RealJapan" Web site.
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December 6, 1999
FINDING
CULTURE WHERE YOU DON'T EXPECT IT
Isn't
it great when being wrong can lead to enlightenment?
That's
what happened to me this weekend. During a brief trip to San Diego,
California, I was hoping to find a thriving Asian community and many
Japanese Americans -- after all, isn't California the promised land
for people from the Pacific Rim?
So
imagine my surprise when I found no sign of an Asian community except
for the occasional Japanese, Chinese or Thai restaurant, and no signs
of a district like San Francisco's Japan Town, Los Angeles' Little Tokyo,
or even Denver's one-block Sakura Square. I didn't even see many Asians
out and about throughout the city. When I played the "Japanese
tourist" and took a guided tour that included Coronado Island,
Balboa Park, the Gaslamp District and La Jolla, I was further surprised
to find no other Asian visitors -- at least, not on my bus. I asked
several tour guides if there were areas of the city that are predominantly
Asian, whether Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese or whatever. One
driver told me there's a Filipino area, but that otherwise Asians are
scattered throughout.
So
I had given up my search for Japanese American connections in San Diego
by the time I returned to further explore the many museums contained
within the beautifully landscaped boundaries of Balboa Park. After spending
time wandering through the park's 1200 acres -- its museums were built
for a world exposition in 1915, and the temporary buildings have since
become a cultural landmark for the city -- I ended the day at the park's
Japanese Friendship Garden. It had already closed its gates but the
attendant just inside was kind enough to let me pay my $3 and enter
anyway. The garden included carefully tended plants, precisely placed
rocks and even a Zen rock garden.
I enjoyed
the Zen garden from a small meditation room with a picture window that
looked out over its raked white rocks, broken by boulders representing
islands in Japan's inland sea, as well as a steep valley just below
the terraced garden and the dramatic foliage of the rest of Balboa Park
beyond.
I stayed
there a long time, just enjoying the view but knowing that the park
was closing outside. The tatami-covered benches were comfortable and
the exquisitely simple design of the Zen garden really helped my mind
wander. A tiny bird that looked like it could have leapt right out of
a sumi-e brush painting alighted on the outside of the window and sat
perfectly still for minutes, almost as if it too was meditating. Finally
an elderly man came into the room to shoo me out, or so I thought.
I figured
he was a volunteer whose job was to close down the Japanese Friendship
Garden every night. He began to explain the display of origami near
the entrance to the room, and I groaned in anticipation of a pseudo-lecture
I didn't need and wasn't that interested in: "Did you know that
you could create all these things with one little square of paper?"
Oh, really?
But
for some reason, he sensed the origami talk was unnecessary and instead
turned his conversation to the Zen garden. He mentioned that the garden
and the room were for meditating (oh, really?) and said I was supposed
to meditate until I had a satori. Now, this was educational, since I'm
a spiritual simpleton. He explained that a satori was a state of enlightenment
that could be a flash of understanding or inspiration: an epiphany.
People can have daily little satoris, like when you find the car keys
that you misplaced, or major satoris, ones that can change the course
of your life.
This
was getting interesting.
He
added that the Japanese gardens at Balboa Park will be expanding into
the steep valley below us, and that the current gardens will become
a walkway leading down to the expanded gardens. He joked about this
not being completed within his lifetime, and when I said I didn't live
in the city, asked where I was from. When I said Colorado, he mentioned
he'd just been in Durango for a book signing.
This
man was revealing more and more interesting details about himself all
the time. Little by little, I learned more about this amiable and very
knowledgeable garden expert.
His
name is Lennox Tierney ("Like the actress Gene," I said, knowing
that she was a star of his generation, and he smiled in agreement),
and his book is "Wabi Sabi: A New Look at Japanese Design"
(Gibbs Smith, 1999). Tierney, who is a spry 87 years old, is the art
director of the Japanese Friendship Garden. He spends one week a month
in San Diego tending to the garden's upkeep and future plans, and lives
the rest of the time in Salt Lake City, were he's professor emeritus
of the History of Asian Arts at the University of Utah (he earned a
doctorate studying Japanese gardens from Sogetsu Ryu in Tokyo). He's
also a consultant to the Mingei Museum in Balboa Park, and the current
curator of Japanese Art for the Utah State Museum of Art -- all heavy
duty credentials indeed.
In
a sentence, he's a world-renowned expert. A garden he designed for the
posh and exclusive Golden Door spa north of San Diego almost 30 years
ago is so respected that Japanese officials regularly make their way
to the spa to admire his work (what better place for Zen meditation
than a spa?). He spoke eloquently of his efforts to make the Japanese
Friendship Garden as authentic as possible, and admitted he'd lost some
battles, pointing to the mixed color of some of the slate tiles surrounding
the meditation room, and the somewhat light color of the boulders in
another part of the garden.
Tierney's
clearly still passionate about and proud of his work -- he's an inspiration
to someone like me who's still just midway on my life's path.
As
we spoke, I had a satori of my own: I was meant to meet Lennox Tierney.
That's why I spent hours at Balboa Park, and ended the day at the Japanese
Friendship Garden then dawdled in the meditation room until he found
me. I needed to write about him, and to stay in touch with him. To mix
spiritual metaphors, it was a karmic rendezvous.
We
exchanged contact information after he shared wonderful anecdotes, and
he recommended a fine Japanese restaurant for dinner. As he walked out
of the garden to his car, he marveled suddenly at the fact that he was
as old as Balboa Park, and that he was born during the reign of the
Japanese Taisho emperor, who ruled after Meiji, the man who modernized
Japan and opened the country to Westerners. "I'm almost a Meiji
man," Tierney chuckled. "I've lived for most of the years
of this century... this is my century."
Though
I'd just met him, I feel honored to have crossed paths with this man
of the 20th century. And, I feel humbled to know that after spending
several days searching for some sign of Japanese culture within people
who look like me, I found the source I was looking for in an octogenarian
American like Lennox Tierney.
I know
now that the Japanese spirit lives in many places and within many different
people.
If
you're planning a trip to San Diego, visit the city's Convention and Visitor's Bureau first,
via its Web site. You can find a lecture
about Japanese Gardens by Lennox Tierney online. It's part of a
Web site dedicated to the Japanese Friendship Garden at San Diego's Balboa
Park. And, while I'm at it, I want to recommend ContacTours,
which does a fine job of offering many different individual and package
tours. I took a solo tour of San Diego's city and harbor sites by bus
and boat, and met some great folks. Ask for Dave Golston -- he was my
funny, knowledgeable guide, and he's a great storyteller who obviously
loves his job!
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November 28, 1999
WRESTLING
FOR A PLACE IN SPORTS
Is
it possible that Japanese Americans were put on Earth to excel at mental
exercises, not physical ones? My brother Glenn, his wife Michelle and
I were sitting around the other day, trying to name Japanese American
professional athletes, and though I admit were not experts at
this sort of thing, we couldnt think of more than a couple.
Skater
Kristi Yamaguchi and Colorado-based skier-turned-TV-sportscaster Hank
Kashiwa came to mind. Who else?
Hmm,
its not likely that therell be a Japanese American National
Basketball Association star anytime soon - even if the current generation
of JA kids is growing up bigger and stronger than previous ones. Even
in hockey, a sport which seems less tied to a players size than
his or her skills, I cant think of a Japanese name on the ice.
And though were seeing Asian Pacific Islander athletes playing
now in the National Football League, I have yet to see a Japanese beefy
enough to play professional football.
There
are some Asians on the pro golf circuit, and people like Michael Chang
excel in tennis. But I cant think of many Japanese American names
covered in the sports pages.
OK,
OK, there are Major League Baseball players who are Japanese. But theyre
not JAs.
In
a way, we can take the excellence of Japanese athletes in Western sports
as a role model. That quality of player is the result of Japans
love of baseball and the commitment boys in Japan put to the sport.
But Japanese are crazy about other Western sports besides baseball.
Take
professional wrestling, for instance. Thats right: pro wrestling,
as in Hulk Hogan, Jesse Ventura and all the other wild, flamboyant entertainers
calling themselves athletes in the increasingly popular
sport.
When
we think Japan and wrestling we think of sumo, but during the 1950s,
American-style professional wrestling helped revive the national spirit
of the defeated Japanese archipelago. The country was still rebuilding
its cities and re-creating a peaceful government and society from the
ground up using a foreign blueprint (an American-style constitution
forced upon Japan during General Douglas MacArthurs Occupation).
Though the population accepted American rule during the late 1940s,
by the 1950s, quality of life was miserable for the Japanese and the
spectacular defeat still cut to the core of Japans psyche.
Thats
when western-style professional wrestling caught on. It caught on in
such a big way that the sport helped establish the young medium of television
in Japan, and caused the sale of early TV sets to skyrocket - just so
audiences could watch Japanese wrestlers take on Americans
and
often beat them. It was a thrilling form of cultural revenge played
out as entertainment on a countrywide scale, and it worked to take viewers
minds off their past defeats and current poverty and focus on the future.
Robert
Whitings 1995 "Tokyo Underworld," subtitled "The
Fast Times and Hard Life of an American Gangster in Japan," suggests
that the matches between Japanese and American wrestlers were fixed
(no, say it aint so!) by the post-war Yakuza (Japanese
gangsters) that booked the events. Although some Japanese such as the
former sumo champion Rikidozan were powerful athletes in their own right,
the Western wrestlers were happy enough to lose a fight on purpose -
if they were paid enough to do so.
The
history of puroresu (a typically contracted form of the
English professional wrestling) in Japan goes back much
farther than the 1950s. Way back in 1883, a sumo wrestler named Sorakichi
Matsuda went to the United States and became the first Japanese pro
wrestler. The same year, another sumo star, Shokichi Hamada, known as
Sangokuyama in sumo, also became a pro wrestler in the U.S. and a few
years later brought 20 American wrestlers to Tokyo for a match. The
event sold out because of curiosity, but after initial interest, the
Japanese public wasnt interested. It took until 1952, when Rikidozan
retired from sumo and traveled to San Francisco for a match, for wrestling
to catch on in Japan.
The
first wrestling match broadcast by Japanese networks was in 1954, and
the tag-team matches that included Rikidozan, the main event, attracted
thousands of bystanders who gathered around publicly-mounted "street
television" for people who couldn't afford television sets at home.
Rikidozan
eventually was killed in a Yakuza revenge stabbing, but his talent was
real: he won the World Heavyweight title from Fred Blassie in 1962 at
the Los Angeles Olympic Auditorium and was the first Asian to win a
world title belt.
This
kind of international acknowledgement has also come from the signing
of Japanese players to American baseball teams. And it reflects a national
commitment to fitness as an important part of growing up in Japan. Theres
even a holiday every October where sports and fitness is celebrated
nationwide. It might be a good idea to adopt in the U.S., so we as a
society can all applaud the physical accomplishments of all our students
(not just JAs).
I wonder
if Japanese societys commitment to sports has been handed down
to us through our immigrant roots. There certainly is a history of organized
sports within our community. Others who know lots more than I do about
JA sports leagues that were started in the early days of our Issei forefathers.
I know
there were all-JA minor league baseball teams in places like Hawaii,
and scattered throughout the Western U.S, at one point. I know there
are all-JA bowling teams and leagues. And of course theres the
wide variety of Asian martial arts from judo and karate to aikido and
kung fu that Japanese Americans compete in. The Denver Buddhist Temple
has always sponsored all manner of sports for its young members - in
fact its hard to think of any Japanese American community center
that doesnt have an attached gym for its youth. Thats a
relic of the days when Asian faces werent welcome on the courts
or pools of local YMCAs and health clubs.
So
the Japanese American community isnt lacking for interest in and
support for sports - just for athletes in the national spotlight to
serve as role models. Just maybe, with the increasing size of every
generation of JA athletes, we may still get to see a Mayeda score a
hat trick, or a young Asakawa play pro womens soccer.
Or
maybe another Rikidozan will rise up and take over the world of pro
wrestling. Id even tune in the WWF for that!
I
knew my lack of professional sports knowledge would betray me on this
column! Thanks to all of you who let me know there are already some
Japanese American players in the National Hockey League....
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November 21, 1999
PRINCESS
MONONOKE: A CARTOON FOR ADULTS
There's
a Japanese cultural invasion underway, and a children' cartoon is leading
the charge. The Pokemon phenomenon is interesting because the animated
series ("anime" in Japanese) uses cute characters and fantastic
situations to illustrate situations requiring moral choices and value
judgments. Its popularity is surprising given the life lessons it teaches
its young viewers -- both with the Saturday morning TV series (dubbed
from the Japanese originals) and the new hit movie being shown in multiplexes
across the country.
Pokemon
is definitely kid stuff, though -- fun to look at, but simply presented,
not just in its plots and characters but also in its somewhat static
drawing style. That's pretty common in the U.S., where animation means
primarily cartoons which are create solely to entertain kids.
Anime
as a film genre in Japan isn't just for youngsters, though. In fact,
I'd venture to say there's as much or more anime available aimed at
adult viewers as for children (many are dubbed here in the U.S., some
have English subtitles). Most are science fiction stories or quasi-historical
samurai fantasies, and many are very violent and gory, with sexual undertones.
There's even an entire sub-genre of sexually explicit adult anime.
So
it's not surprising that in Japan, animated feature movies could be
popular with adult audiences. That was the case with "Mononoke
Hime," a full-length anime released in 1997 which was the highest-grossing
movie in the history of Japan's film industry until the Japanese release
of "Titanic" knocked it off the top of the charts.
Now,
Miramax, the American independent film studio, has decided to bring
the film to U.S. audiences as "Princess Mononoke," complete
with a carefully translated English script (not just clunky "lip-synching")
and the voices of well-known Western actors such as Claire Danes as
the Princess Mononoke (who's called "San" throughout the film),
the warrior who'd been raised as a wolf; "X-Files" star Gillian
Anderson as the voice of Moro the Wolf, Mononoke's adopted mother; Billy
Bob Thornton as the scheming priest Jigo; Jada Pinkett Smith as the
sassy steelworker Toki and Minnie Driver as the regal Lady Eboshi, a
character that walks the blurry line between being a villain and hero.
I think
everyone -- Japanese and American -- should see "Princess Mononoke."
I saw it with some friends, including two Japanese American teens who
were engrossed in the movie and found it both entertaining and powerful.
First of all, it's a sterling example of the fine artistic quality that's
often achieved in anime. The background art is lush and very realistic
-- some of the landscapes seem photographic in their detail and rendering
of atmosphere. The characters are drawn in the typical anime style of
large eyes, but the costuming and figure drawing accurately evokes an
early samurai era. Within minutes, I forgot I was watching a cartoon
and fell into the plotline.
The
story's not set in a particular time or place, though, which is made
plain by all the mystical creatures that populate the film: Hideous
monsters, gigantic animal demons, and the cute, immediately likable
"Kodama" wood spirits that look like Caspar the Friendly Ghost
crossed with an alien. Nicole, one of the teens who saw the movie with
me, couldn't help but melt every time the Kodamas made an appearance.
You
can tell the story is Japanese from all sorts of cultural signs, both
obvious and subtle, from the use of chopsticks and samurai swords to
the cuisine of rice and miso soup, not to mention the characters' names.
In one scene, Prince Ashitaka (voiced by Billy Crudup) has to cut the
top-knot from his hair before leaving his village forever to search
for the cure to the curse that is killing him. Cutting the top-knot
was a tradition when a man was forced to leave his tribe. Many of these
"Japanese-isms" may slip by American audiences, but they're
a delight for anyone who's looking for them. Early on, when Ashitaka
meets the priest Jigo, they camp out and Jigo heats dinner over a fire,
and clearly stirs miso into a bowl of soup.
So
what's "Princess Mononoke" about?
In
a nutshell, the film is a metaphor for modern civilization's clash against
nature, and the horrendous consequences we may be calling upon ourselves
by indiscriminate development and industrialization. Director Hayao
Miyazakis themes are clear from the first scenes. The story is
about how indigenous people maintain their way of life in an untamed
world, the conflict between industrial progress and the environment,
and the power that myths have on our imaginations. The film isn't for
kids because it's gory and violent, and because these themes are explored
in complex ways. There are no easy answers in Miyazaki's worldview --
even the "bad guys" have a good side (Lady Eboshi may be destroying
the forest in order to profit and make steel, but she hires and cares
for prostitutes and lepers who are castoffs from society), and the "good
guys" can get lost in evil intentions. The plot is straightforward
but gives no pat answers to the problems facing our world today -- just
a lot of nourishing food for thought.
"Princess
Mononoke" makes its audiences THINK, which is the main reason people
should see it. But alas, even Miramax understands that a box-office
smash in Japan isn't necessarily going to be a stateside hit. "Pokemon"
may be rolling through the mall multiplexes, but "Mononoke"
is relegated -- at least in Denver -- to one art-house theater, and
probably will suffer a short run. My suggestion: If you miss it in the
theaters, be sure to watch for it on video. Better yet, try to find
the Japanese version (I'm looking for one myself) and practice your
Japanese while you're enjoying the movie!
You
can learn about "Princess Mononoke," see samples from the
film, read about how the American voice actors were chosen and play
interactive games online at the film's U.S. home page -- http://princess-mononoke.com.
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November 14, 1999
THE
IMPORTANCE OF STAYING JAPANESE
I'm
glad when non-Japanese are so interested in Japan that they immerse
themselves in the culture and even commit to learning the language.
Conversely, it makes me sad when Japanese aren't interested in their
own heritage.
I've
written in the past about how growing up, I didn't think of myself as
very Japanese. But my upbringing at home was full of Japanese culture
and traditions, from rice with every meal (except when we had something
like spaghetti) to taking off my shoes in the home. I also grew up with
my parents speaking a combination of English and Japanese -- my friends
marveled at how my mom spoke to me in heavily accented English with
a few Japanese words thrown in, and I replied with a hasty "Yeah,
okay mom" before running out the door. That's just how it is in
a bilingual household.
It
was only later that I realized that the mixed-up language I grew up
with was a doorway to my roots, along with all the food and household
rituals all around me. In recent years, I've come to cherish the Japanese
side of my life, and seek out ways to emphasize it and learn more.
As
with many immigrant groups -- I know many Italian Americans who don't
speak Italian after all -- not every JA feels this way. Nor do I pass
judgment on those who aren't deeply connected with their heritage. But
because Asians can't just "pass" unnoticed within a primarily
Caucasian society, we don't really have the luxury of ignoring who we
are and where our ancestors came from. Sooner or later, someone with
a racist attitude will remind us that we're not like them. Besides,
if I turned my back on all things Japanese, I'd be missing out on a
very rich culture, and deny myself a fuller knowledge of myself.
I know
one adult sansei, or third generation JA, who until the 1990s had never
had sushi and knew more about Mexican food than Japanese food or culture.
Like me, he told friends he considered himself Caucasian. He was so
militant that his anti-Japanese tendencies seemed forced. I still held
on to my love of Japanese things even if I forgot my skin color in my
daily life.
I also
know many JAs -- even Nisei (second generation) but also Sansei like
me, and Yonsei and Gosei (fourth and fifth) -- who aren't interested
in traveling to Japan. I must admit that when I first returned to Japan
as an adult, I felt nervous because I wondered if I would fit in, or
if something about me would scream "AMERICAN!" to Japanese.
As it happened, I did stick out as an American, but no one made me feel
the lesser for it, and I enjoyed being able to straddle both countries
as much there as I do here. Although they're the most Americanized,
the younger generations surprisingly enough seem to have more of an
interest, borne out of curiosity about their distant roots, in visiting
Japan.
The
younger JAs and future generations are the key to maintaining a sense
of cultural heritage in the Japanese American community. We should all
be nurturing an interest in all things Japanese in JA children, and
never act as if any aspect of our Asian side is shameful, embarrassing,
weird or inappropriate. My brother Glenn and his wife Michelle (who
happens to be Caucasian) are very good about keeping their two adorable
daughters connected. They use Japanese words as a part of their daily
routine, include lots of Japanese food in their diet and even read them
Japanese stories and play Japanese children's music recordings. For
the past year they've also taken my nieces to Japanese language classes
every weekend, even though they have to drive across the Denver metro
area for the classes. They think it's important and wouldn't deprive
their kids this experience, and I applaud them for making the commitment.
My
nieces enjoy the classes but they're young girls still, and probably
didn't ask to take them. When an older JA child asks to attend Japanese
language class or wants to learn taiko drumming, I say "hooray!"
and would urge parents to support these interests whole-heartedly. Jared,
the teenaged son of a friend of mine, looks forward to such activities,
which he's introduced to via the Denver Buddhist Temple downtown, a
true community center for the JA community. And his mom eagerly allows
him to explore his roots with these activities along with all the other
things teenagers are interested in like sports, which aren't part of
his Japanese side.
That's
the way it should be. I'm no expert on child psychology, but it doesn't
take mental gymnastics to know that giving a kid a sense of his or her
own cultural identity, you're giving them a center that can serve as
a foundation for the rest of their lives and interests. It's even more
important in these times when the nuclear family tree has exploded into
fragmented and sometimes brittle branches of former spouses' households.
Parents who are lackadaisical about allowing their children to discover
and learn about their ancestry, or worse, won't let them explore their
roots because it's expensive, or inconvenient, or too far to drive to,
are simply robbing their children of a part of their identity.
And
that's a crying shame.
By
the way, I don't mean to imply that any Japanese American should be
fluent in Japanese.
I appreciate
Japanese culture a lot more these days than when I was younger, but
my language skills are still spotty. When I'm at a Japanese restaurant
or the Pacific Mercantile grocery store, I find myself trying earnestly
to speak in Japanese but end up mixing up my languages. Like my parents,
I throw Japanese and English together in a savory stew of verbiage.
I guess
that's all right. My friends from high school wouldn't be surprised.
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November 7, 1999
BASE
BEHAVIOR: MEMORIES OF A MILITARY BRAT
I made
a wrong turn today, and found myself driving through distant echoes
of my childhood.
The
images were all as if they were frozen in time -- flat open field of
grass, low housing buildings and the stodgy office and school buildings
of United States military bases. Only this one is a former base, Lowry
Air Force Base east of Denver. One building still featured a proud memento
of its earlier incarnation: A shiny air force bomber left as a monument
reminds passersby that this is a decommissioned military base currently
being redeveloped as a model suburban community.
The
symbolism -- a military facility is adapted for peacetime domesticity
-- perfectly parallels how suburbs were first developed to accommodate
the explosion of families as wartime GIs returned home in the late 1940s.
The drive also took me back to my childhood, when I was raised on or
near U.S. military bases and attended American schools on those bases.
The
issue doesn't seem to be in the Japanese headlines these days, but because
of Veterans Day coming up, I have thought about the U.S. military's
presence in Japan. I've thought about it because if it weren't for our
two countries' continuing -- and from to time, contentious -- military
relationship, I wouldn't be here. My father was in the U.S. Army and
stationed in Hokkaido during the Korean War, first at a small city called
Kushiro, and then in Nemuro, a smaller city that serves as the eastern-most
point in Japan (and therefore a popular destination for New Year's Day,
because the sun first rises on Nemuro). That's where he met my mother,
a schoolgirl who'd been named "Miss Nemuro" when she was 17.
I can
only imagine what my dad was like when he was a teenager, or in his
early 20s. He was a lean, handsome young man who was quick with a smile
and quick to fool around while working. (The Japanese have a great onomatopoetic
word, "charra-charra," which describes the nervous energy
of goofing around... but I digress.)
But
he won my mom over, and went through the mountains of paperwork and
various bureaucratic hurdles the U.S. put up to make it difficult for
GIs to marry foreign nationals like my mom. After they were married,
and the Americanization of my mom began, our family took root on military
bases. My earliest memories are of vast, fenced-in expanses of open
fields and roads made for marching, bordered by row upon row of barracks-like
housing units and administrative buildings trimmed with cannons, tanks,
missiles or planes strategically placed as pieces of military sculpture,
much like the ghostly remains of Denver's Lowry Air Force Base.
My
youngest recollections as an infant include lots of snappy khaki pleats
and olive accents, shiny black shoes and always the American flag --
waving, being raised or lowered, the sound of its flapping and the clinking
of its rope against the flagpole a daily part of my noontime lullaby.
We lived and attended schools in places with names such as "Grant
Heights" or "Green Park," and we socialized in places
with names such as Tachikawa Air Base or Atsugi, the former Imperial
air field where MacArthur's Occupation forces first landed weeks after
the surrender.
We
also lived for a brief time in southern Japan, in Iwakuni outside of
Hiroshima. We lived off-base from the U.S. Marine facility at Iwakuni,
but as usual, my American friends and I were bussed into school on-base,
where I attended Matthew C. Perry Elementary School. I have fond recollections
of having hamburgers at the greasy spoon hut set up outside our school,
next to the baseball field, then after school riding bikes around town
with Japanese and American friends, stopping for Japanese snacks like
frozen pineapple rings while we played in our blissfully mixed-race
world. It never occurred to me, for instance, when I visited the Hiroshima
Peace Park as a boy, that my father's friends and co-workers are part
of the military might that dropped the bomb on such a beautiful city.
As a child, those deeper questions were beyond my ken.
My
father was never hard-core military like the father in the 1979 film
"The Great Santini," but military culture was definitely part
of my life until I was 8 years old and about to enter 3rd grade. That's
when we moved to the States, so my dad could work in a civilian capacity
for the Army Corps of Engineers outside Washington, D.C. Since then,
I'm only reminded of my familiarity with the Army life when go on-base
somewhere, or find myself driving through a former base like Lowry.
In
recent years, American military presence around the world has been questioned
and much of our presence has been cut back. For decades, a movement
in Japan has protested the concentration of U.S. military installations
still in that country, with an emphasis on the bases on Okinawa. Every
few years, a headline bursts forth like the ones in the early '90s where
GIs were accused of raping a young Japanese girl -- headlines that haven't
changed much since the immediate post-war days.
What
those headlines don't mention is how much friendship there has been
over the decades between and the U.S. and Japan, and how many GIs have
been stationed in Japan and left there enriched by the experience in
many ways both personal and political. And how many GIs have fallen
not in war, but in love while in Japan.
My
best memory of all from my childhood on-base is a vivid image of being
with my dad at the noncommissioned officer's club at Tachikawa, a dark
smoky place with lots of red, and helping him choose Glenn Miller songs
for the jukebox. It's easy to forget that in addition to everything
else my father was, he was also a veteran -- and that his military service
has left its impression me.
Thanks,
and happy Veterans Day, dad!
You
can "virtually" visit Iwakuni, where I lived briefly, through
a wonderful Web site, The
Spencers in Iwakuni, created by Donella Spencer, the wife of a U.S.
Marine stationed at the USMC base there. She loved the city and being
in Japan, even though her family's now transferred back to the
states. You'll find a lot of information about living in, traveling
in and visiting Japan and Iwakuni at her site, and lost of links to
other sites.
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October 31, 1999
THE
PAST FOR SALE: ANTIQUES AND CULTURAL CONTEXT
Shopping
for antiques is a popular pastime -- holding onto the past becomes more
and more comforting as we hurtle into a future where change is constant
and everything new is valued over anything old.
I'm
a fan of certain types of antiques -- pop culture junk such as toys
from my baby-boomer childhood, for example, always warm my heart. And
these days, I'm also interested in Japanese antiques as another way
to absorb and appreciate my historical roots. But a recent visit to
a dealer of Japanese antiques made me think about the purpose and power
of these objects, whether they're 100 years old or just a few decades.
The
occasion was the open house for Hanakago Antiques, a new business run
by Mark and Anita Meyer of Boulder, Colorado.
The
Meyers plan to operate Hanakago out of their home, with showings by
appointment to anyone who's interested in Japanese furniture, baskets,
textiles and decorative objects from artwork and handcrafted wood boxes
to a variety of vases for displaying ikebana, or flower arrangements.
The Meyers' home is a spacious contemporary style in a posh neighborhood,
and the antiques for sale in the living room add a classy thematic boost
to the clean lines of their architecture.
The
couple had lived in Japan for over a dozen years and when they moved
to Boulder, they realized there wasn't a source for the type of objects
and furniture and clothing they had begun collecting. That's when they
decided to form Hanakago.
Their
taste for antiques is very refined -- at the open house there were many
beautiful tansu (dressers), kimonos and obis (the sashes that are worn
around the waist) and lots of appealing smaller pieces such as a variety
of baskets and containers, including "bento boxes" (lunch
boxes) with latches and handles which held smaller containers for rice,
vegetables and the other elements of a mobile meal. I almost bought
one because it was so exquisitely designed and crafted out of basket
weaves. I also almost purchased an ikebana vase (not that I have a lot
of ikebana to display) carved out of a burl of dark wood, shaped like
a giant ginger root.
All
of the items were dated by the Imperial eras -- Meiji, Taisho, Showa
-- by which Japanese mark their historical periods. The Meiji emperor
ruled from the mid-1800s to the early 1900s, and oversaw the Westernization
and modernization of Japan after the country was opened up to the world
by the U.S. commodore Matthew Perry. Taisho was the brief reign cut
short by mental illness; the Taisho emperor's son, crown prince Hirohito,
actually ran the country for some of the Taisho era before becoming
emperor himself in the late 1920s. The Showa era under Hirohito is the
Japan westerners know best because it's the Japan of World War II and
the miraculous economic recovery since then (he ruled until 1989).
Because
the Meyers are knowledgeable about Japanese history, going to their
home to see their collection can be an educational experience. At the
same time, though, the open house made me think about what happens when
objects that once were part of someone's life are taken out of their
original context.
This
process of "recycling" old stuff for new enjoyment or other
purposes is as inevitable as the passage of time, but in this case,
some of the consequences of recycling nagged at my heart. The Meyers
and the people who visited their open house certainly appreciated Japanese
culture. But I felt a little bit protective of some of the objects being
sold, because appreciation doesn't necessarily mean understanding or
sensitivity. I saw a gorgeous and striking obi sash that featured Kanji,
or Chinese calligraphic characters, woven black-on-black, which was
handled by a buyer as if it were a bath towel on sale at a discount
store. Because an obi is an important part of traditional dress and
there's a ritualized and respectful way of handling them, and my friends
and I felt somehow saddened seeing this beautiful piece treated not
as part of a traditional ensemble but as a perfect decorative touch
for atop a dresser.
This
is the process of all antiques, since collectors have differing levels
of background knowledge for the things they buy. I even found myself
thinking of much of the collection merely as decorative items, which
made me feel a bit shallow about my roots. Would owning some old Japanese
objects really make me more connected to my own past?
In
Denver, a store called East-West Designs sells some of the same types
of objects and furniture as the Meyers, though the emphasis isn't quite
so "high-end" and there isn't as much focus on pieces from
the Meiji era or older (in fact the tags at East-West Designs don't
note the age at all). Perhaps because the prices are somewhat less expensive
(though there are things that are pricey), and because the sales person
is Japanese and because a Japanese customer wandered in while I was
there, I felt less worried about cultural dislocation -- I felt the
items in the store were grounded in their context.
Is
that unfair? I'm not sure... I'm still thinking about how I feel about
it. In the end, anyone who likes Japanese antiques has the right collect
it, no matter whether they're Japanese or not. Antiques deserve to go
to a good home where they'll be pampered, and perhaps that's the best
we could hope for -- that way the object lives on even if its original
owner's spirit is no longer part of its soul.
Note:
Hanakago Antiques is located at 1177 Cascade Ave. in Boulder, and is
open by appointment; call 303-938-8989. East-West Designs is at 303
Josephine St., Denver, 303-316-9520.
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October 25, 1999
THAI
FOOD AND LIFE LESSONS
I write
often about Japanese restaurants, but I love any kind of food, and this
week I'd like to tell you about my friendship with a man who has opened
a handful of great Thai eateries along the Colorado Front Range in a
little over the decade that I've known him.
I first
met Paul Santanachote in the mid-1980s, when he ran Tommy's Oriental
Kitchen (now called Tommy's Thai), a tiny restaurant on East Colfax
Avenue. An attorney friend of mine took me there for lunch one day,
and I loved the food so much that I returned for lunch five days straight,
and on the last day took bags of takeout food back to the office to
share with my co-workers. Paul was the host and manager, and I found
out later that his wife, Oranuch, was the talent behind the dishes --
she cooks, while Paul takes care of business.
The
Pad Thai was delicious, extra-spicy (at my request) and filling. For
those of you unfamiliar with Thai cuisine, Pad Thai is the "spaghetti"
or "teriyaki" of Thailand, the one dish most foreigners have
heard of, which is made with various meats and vegetables stir-fried
with noodles and served with varying degrees of peppery heat. Over time
I tried almost all the dishes, from the cold beef salad to the green
and red curries and Sriracha, an explosion of flavor served in a spicy
red sauce. And, I got completely hooked on Thai iced coffee, a concoction
of strong coffee served over ice with sweet condensed milk added. Try
one sometime -- it's like sucking down liquid candy, and it has the
double-kick of caffeine and sugar so you'll be buzzing round for hours.
Whenever
I had a business lunch, I suggested Tommy's for the meeting, and helped
tell more people about the quaint hole-in-the-wall eatery which had
started life as a KFC chicken outlet.
After
a few years of running Tommy's, Paul outgrew Tommy's and tired of the
fast-food pace. He longed for a larger, sit-down restaurant. After scouting
locations, Paul announced he had found a space in Boulder -- which coincidentally
had for years housed the Kobe An Japanese restaurant but had been vacant
for some time.
He
handed Tommy's to his brother-in-law, Sam (both are former mail carriers),
and then began renovating the space in Boulder, which is right on the
Pearl Street Mall at 14th Street. Paul redesigned the interior but he
had to work with some of the existing architecture: Kobe An had tatami-mat
rooms so Paul left them for groups who wanted the privacy of the enclosed
rooms. Sawaddee, the new restaurant started off slowly, but within a
year attracted a regular clientele.
During
this time, I got to know Paul better, and discovered that he lived in
Littleton -- the suburb south of Denver -- and I marveled at how he
and his wife, and even his teenaged daughter Dipany, who worked with
them during the summer, commuted to Boulder. The daily grind sounded
horrible to me. They got up early every morning and headed to the restaurant,
stopping only to pick up ingredients for the day's meals, and had the
restaurant open for lunch. The entire family worked straight through
to closing and got back home well past midnight after cleaning up the
restaurant. Then they got up and did it again.
I admired
the entire Santanachote family for its united effort to help the entire
business succeed. Their single-mindedness was then, and still is, a
great inspiration to me.
Paul
again got the itch to start another restaurant after a couple of years,
and this time to do it from the ground up and literally control every
aspect of the building. He scouted locations in Fort Collins, the small
college town another hour north of Boulder, where Dipany planned to
attend Colorado State University when she graduated from high school.
I regrettably
lost touch with Paul and his wonderful family about this time, because
I got a job south of Denver in Colorado Springs, and only occasionally
managed to visit Boulder. But I wasn't surprised at all when I heard
that Paul gave Sawaddee to another family member and finally opened
Sri Thai in Fort Collins.
Two
years after he opened Sri Thai, I managed to finally visit Paul in Fort
Collins last month.
I called
ahead for directions for my friend Leland and me, and spoke briefly
to Paul. It was great to hear his eager voice, and he told us how he
had achieved his dream. He had bought the land -- a corner lot at a
busy intersection -- and designed and oversaw the construction of the
restaurant from start to finish.
When
we got to Sri Thai, the place was packed, but Paul had held open the
one table in the room that had a corner view of the entire restaurant.
Paul wanted us to have the best seats in the house to watch the choreography
of his friendly, knowledgeable waitstaff and the servers scurrying around
with dishes.
The
food tasted fantastic, naturally, and even though we were stuffed from
dinner and ready to leave, Paul made us sit back down and was kind enough
to finish us off with some mango and sweet sticky rice for dessert.
I hugged
Paul afterwards and told him how much I admired him, and explained how
I try to work hard, partly because of my own "Asian work ethic"
but also because of role models like Paul in my life.
I'll
go back to Sri Thai soon (I won't wait years again before I see Paul)
but I can always visit the other restaurants closer to home that are
Paul's legacy. Tommy's Oriental is still doing great business, though
Sam who took over for Paul is now running his own fine restaurant called
Wild Ginger. Sam handed Tommy's to family members to run, of course.
And Sawaddee still serves up delicious Pad Thai and other staples.
This
legacy reminds me always of the lesson that success has to be earned,
but that it's always achievable if you're dedicated to it. And best
of all, life's lessons never tasted so good.
Note:
Sri Thai is located at 950 S. Taft Hill Rd. in Fort Collins, (970) 482-5115.
Tommy's Thai is located at 3410 E. Colfax Ave., (303) 377-4244. Wild
Ginger is at 399 W. Littleton Blvd., (303) 794-1115.
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October 18, 1999
RACE
RELATIONSHIPS: SNOW FALLING ON CEDARS
I haven't
read "Snow Falling on Cedars," the 1994 bestseller by David
Guterson, but I got a sneak peek at the movie version of the novel last
week at the closing night screening of the Denver International Film
Festival. I enjoyed the film and hope it's a hit, with its twenty-something
star Ethan Hawke as the main attraction.
For
Japanese Americans, Hawke is a sidelight. We'll go to the film to see
how it depicts our history -- or at least, the experience of a small
JA community near Seattle. Much of the discussion over both the book
and now the movie focuses around the topic of Internment and whether
"Snow Falling on Cedars" does a good job of explaining what
happened to Japanese Americans who were uprooted from their Pacific
Northwest home and transplanted in concentration camps thousands of
miles away.
Some
people I've spoken to think "Snow Falling on Cedars" isn't
politically charged enough, and that the film misses the chance to educate
mainstream America about the tragedy of Internment and how Japanese
Americans were treated as recently as a generation ago. That's probably
true enough, but I find this perspective misses the point of the story.
I didn't
see the movie as a political statement. I walked away thinking more
about the inevitability of the story's romantic subplot, and I felt
saddest not for the JAs who suffered the historic ignominies, but for
Hawke's Caucasian lead character, and his devastating realization that
he'll never regain the love of his life.
The
story has several levels: First, it's a murder mystery. Second, it's
a poignant if somewhat impressionistic look back at the Internment of
Japanese Americans from the small island community of San Piedro. Third,
it's a romance as star-crossed and doomed as Romeo and Juliet, with
race serving to divide the Capulets and Montagues in this passion play.
The
film -- like the book -- opens with the death of a fisherman on a foggy
night in Puget Sound, and the arrest of a childhood friend, Kazuo Miyamoto,
for murder. As the trial unfolds, we find out that Miyamoto hated the
victim and was on his ship the night of his death. A journalist covering
the trial for the island's community newspaper, Ishmael Chambers, is
forced to deal with his emotions because Miyamoto's wife is Hatsue,
a woman he's loved from childhood, and with whom he had a torrid teenaged
affair just before the bombing of Pearl Harbor changed everything. Although
he confesses his love for Hatsue before the war, he doesn't speak up
to try and stop the evacuation of Hatsue's family along with the rest
of the island's JAs. And though his father (played in a righteous cameo
by Sam Shepard), the editor of the newspaper, championed the rights
of the Japanese Americans to the consternation of the island's other
Caucasians, Chambers doesn't immediately reveal crucial information
that could affect the outcome of the trail.
On
the other hand, Hatsue's family plays the role of stoic outsiders who
endure the evacuation and then pressure Hatsue to give up her misguided
affection for Ishmael Chambers and settle down with her own kind. When
Japanese use the word "hakujin" for Caucasians, it stings
because it's so obviously a racist slur, and reveals how much racial
division and paranoia simmers below the "inscrutable" surface
of our Asian skin. It doesn't surprise us when the townsfolk call us
"Japs" and display their ugly prejudice during the courtroom
scenes. But I bet Caucasians will be somewhat shocked to see the bluntness
of the Japanese characters' racism against them.
As
a film, "Snow Falling on Cedars" is lovely -- the lyrical
camera work captures breathtaking scenes of the northwest landscape,
though the quick-cut flashbacks and non-linear storytelling style can
be confusing at first.
Some
of the most affecting and effective scenes include the roundup of the
island's JAs; the extended flashbacks of Chambers and Miyamoto's separate
WWII experiences; and the tender moments of the young Chambers and Hatsue
hiding out in a hollow of a gigantic cedar tree in the forest.
The
out-marriage rate of Japanese Americans has of course increased over
the decades since the period in which "Snow Falling on Cedars"
takes place. It's hard to imagine a family insisting on marrying only
Japanese -- it would seem as shockingly out of place as a Caucasian
family refusing to allow a child to marry an African American, or --
gasp -- an Asian. Still, these sad situations occur, even now.
The
movie will surely stir sales of the book again, and I hope with the
combined popularity of the story, people will ponder the Internment
and our country's legacy of race and hatred. But then I hope people
will also think a little farther -- or closer to home -- and see how
race can break hearts as well as communities.
You
can read about the movie release at http://www.snowfallingoncedars.com,
or order the book from Amazon.com,
Tatteredcover.com or your neighborhood
book store.
(return
to index)
September 20, 1999
JAPAN
THROUGH VIDEO GAMES: FROM PONG
TO POKEMON
I recently
watched Jared, the teenaged son of a Japanese American friend of mine,
drop a few quarters into an X-Men vs. Street Fighter video arcade game
at a movie theater. I noted with some interest that though the X-Men
is an American comic book institution, the characters in this video
game were clearly drawn in a Japanese cartoon style. Jared was slamming
away at the game, using rapid wrist movements to control the "joystick"
for movement and the fingers of his other hand to slam down the buttons
that controlled various weapons and martial arts moves carried out onscreen
by the characters.
After
a couple of minutes, two other Asian young men came by, and the older
of the duo slipped to the joystick next to Jared and pressed a button
that brought a message on the screen announcing a challenger. Jared
and the new kid on the game went at it, with teeth gritted, hands and
wrists banging away at the controls and a furious fight onscreen: two
superheroes (hell, I couldn't even tell which was the bad guy and which
was the good guy) hitting, kicking and jumping at each other, then shooting
balls of fire and other assorted powerful mutant weaponry at each other.
Jared
lost this round, but I didn't find out until much later, when he told
me. The second round, Jared kicked the other guy's ass. I had no idea
what was going on at all.
The
entire exchange was bewildering to me because everything moved too fast
for my middle-aged mind to absorb. But it took me back to the earlier
days of amusement arcades and video games, and how companies from Japan
such as Nintendo, and later, Sega and Sony have taken over the market
for computer-driven video games for both the home and arcades.
Not
to sound too nostalgic, but I am a baby boomer, after all, and baby
boomers are nothing if not nostalgic. I still remember when a little
company called Atari introduced Pong, first as an arcade game (most
popular in bars next to the foosball and air hockey tables and pinball
machines) in 1972, with a home version in '74. The California-based
company was named after a term used in the Japanese board game Go.
When
I was in high school, my friend Bubba bought the first Pong game consoles,
sold by Sears. By today's standards it's incredibly simple and unappealing
-- it sort of replicated a ping-pong table on a TV screen, with cursors
at each side as "paddles," and an electronic "ball"
that bounced back and forth across the screen as players used a knob
to move their paddles up and down to intercept the ball.
Not
too challenging compared to Jared's encounter with the X-Men, but the
silly pinging sound of the Pong ball as it bounced heralded a new age
of games and entertainment. The stuff that has come since from Pac Man
and Donkey Kong to Space Invaders and Super Mario all owe a debt to
Pong.
Thanks
to the dumb-named "Donkey Kong," Nintendo was the first superstar
company of this new era of entertainment.
The
Kyoto-based company has its roots in a small family business formed
in 1889 to manufacture sets of a card game called "Hanafuda."
The company grew and became Yamauchi Nintendo & Co. in 1933 and
eventually Nintendo Playing Card Co. Ltd. before expanding from playing
cards and started manufacturing other types of games in the early 1960s.
The company created the first video game system in 1975 in cooperation
with Mitsubishi Electric. Donkey Kong came in 1981, and the Super Mario
Brothers came in 1985 with the very popular Nintendo Entertainment System
for home use.
By
1989, the company was hugely successful, and got even huger with another
hit: The portable, battery-operated Game Boy which allows users to take
their obsessions out of the home or arcade (I'll admit, I own one and
will mindlessly play "Tetris," a simple puzzle game, to waste
time at the office).
Currently,
Nintendo has a lock on the electronic game merchandise for Pokemon,
the mega-hit anime TV show. I think they're doing all right.
The
company doesn't have a lock on the industry at large, though -- Sega,
the Tokyo-based company, is worth $3 billion dollars -- nothing to sneeze
at. And Sony's PlayStation has shipped well over 30 million game systems
worldwide.
Why
am I focusing on all this commerce?
Because
so much of it serves as an indirect ambassador of Japanese style to
the world, and particularly to the U.S. I look at the characters and
see Japanese manga (comics) techniques. Even on the X-Men game, I heard
snippets of Japanese being spoken amidst the flying fists of fury.
There's
a Japanese aesthetic that's hard to describe but which is tangible in
these games. And Sony, in its TV commercials, pays the ultimate homage
to its cultural roots by using the very recognizable voice of a Japanese
female announcer whispering, "PlayStation" with her familiar
accent (Japanese TV commercials often end with the soft voice of a woman
saying the name of the company).
But
you know, all this excitement can be tiring for an old guy like me,
who was there at the dawn of the digital entertainment revolution.
And
now that I think about it, I feel downright nostalgic about my own youth.
I think I'll drag out that Pong game (I eventually bought it from my
friend Bubba) and hook it up for some old-fashioned fun....
I
bought the Pong from Bubba long after high school -- it's a miracle
he still had it -- for research for The Toy
Book, which I co-authored with my pal Leland Rucker in 1991.
(return
to index)
September 13, 1999
THE
TIES THAT BIND: FAMILY FRICTION FICTION
Towards
the end of her debut novel,"Why She Left Us," Rahna Reiko
Rizzuto titled one chapter, "Shikata Ga Nai." A few pages
into this chapter, Emi Okada, the supernova around which the other characters
orbit, explains to her daughter Mariko: "'You know,' she said,
'my mother had a saying. "Shikata ga nai." She used
it a lot, especially during the war. It means,"It can't be helped."'"
This
is a very familiar phrase for Japanese, because its an all-purpose
repository for anything that could be described as an act of God, a
fluke of nature or more commonly, a man-made mess. Its all about
accepting what might appear as wrong -- or worse -- and resigning yourself
to having the all-too-human element of emotion scarring your psyche.
Why
She Left Us is an examination of how the emotional fallout of
this phrase has infected three generations of the Okada family, starting
with the first-generation immigrants Mitsuo Okada and his wife Kaori,
their children Will, Emi and Jack, and their children.
Rizzuto
tells the epic story, which starts before World War II and ends in 1990,
with skill, vision and verbal dexterity - her deft telling of the Okada
familys cross-generational breakdown is an intense dig into psychological
archeology.
The
storys revealed in novel ways, with pieces told from the perspective
of four of the characters in non-linear fashion. Like archeology, the
story emerges rather flows. The reader has to assemble the truth about
the Okada family from memories preserved as shattered artifacts, jumping
back and forth in time, place and voice - each perspective even exists
within its own set of storytelling conventions.
The
holistic tale is simple: A Japanese American immigrant family in California
finds itself imprisoned at the Amache Relocation Camp near Granada,
Colorado, during World War II. Each of the Okada children have different
experiences -- Emi, the wild child, already is an unwed mother who has
given up her son Eric for adoption. But as war looms, Kaori brings Eric
back from his adopted family to raise with his birth family. Emi comes
and goes from this nuclear family, giving birth during the war to her
daughter, leaving her also with her mother and later coming back to
claim just Mariko to take with her new husband to Hawaii.
Throughout
the book, Mari is the protagonist whos curious about her past,
and who eventually discovers the secret of Eric, who she had been told
all her life was her cousin. The plot is actually about the need for
both disclosure and closure about the unspoken, unresolved wounds of
past.
The
fragmented memories suits the herky-jerky pace of the story. And, the
different points of view serve as Rizzutos verbal playgrounds
- there are terrific passages of dialogue that read like a killer screenplay
(hint, hint), striking images and lusciously crafted passages everywhere.
In
the very first chapter, when Eric thinks his mother Emi has finally
come back to take him with her, just the sound of his name unleashes
his emotions. When at last she says his name, the womans
voice splashes into Erics chest, cooling his insides down in a
rush that reaches his toes. It floods his eyes, too, blurring the perfect
lines in her face.
Longing
lingers throughout Erics story, as he grows up with his surrogate
family of his grandmother, grandfather and uncle Jack. At one point
Rizzuto writes, Families, Eric thinks, are deadly.
He
grows up a troubled youth but settles down finally with a wife and children
by the time Mariko undertakes her journey to discover the truth about
herself and her family. Near the end of the book, Mari meets Eric again,
and the two quietly begin to bridge the family chasm.
It's
an enormous chasm to cross: The oldest generation, protecting traditional
values of image and honor, commited brutal sins and effectively destroyed
a family unit in the name of preserving it. The young generation can
play peacemaker in a dysfunctional family, and if loose ends are still
left hanging raw like a live wire shooting off sparks, at least the
circuit was finally turned back on and the electricity can flow again.
Ultimately,
Why She Left Us isnt about the internment. Its
about the ties that bind families together - and the peculiarly Japanese
knots of obligation that can snarl and tangle those ties over time.
Perhaps Rizzutos great accomplishment here is in capturing the
tortured dynamics that are inherent in the line, shikata ga nai
- the Japanese side of her Japanese American background has served her
well here.
Rizzutos
proven shes a first-rate storyteller - theres some temptation
to assume some of the characters and situations are autobiographical,
because her mother was interned at Amache and after the war moved to
Hawaii, where Rizzuto was born.
Despite
the historical accuracy and observant details that could have been drawn
on her own childhood, Why She Left Us is fictional. Rizzuto
interviewed many former internees about their experiences and created
composite experiences from the fragments of sad anecdotes she collected.
But
as fiction, the book rings true -- theres truth enough here for
anyone who comes from a Japanese family to recognize the inexorable
dynamics on display... and then to sigh, "Shikata ga nai."
Rahna
Reiko Rizzuto will make two app